KINNAUR, SPITI, LADAKH - JULY, AUGUST 2010

Flying into Delhi on 29^th June I was met by Rimo Expeditions guide Pawan, introduced to office manager Alka and met my travelling guide and companion Vishwas Raj.

That night we caught the night train for Kalka and early morning transferred to the “Toy Train” mountain railway for the climb up the Shimla, the old British colonial summer resort to escape the heat of the plains.

Toy Train

Shimla

Next day was a long drive along the gorges of the Sutlej River far below to Kafnu to meet Sherpa mountain and trekking guide Neer Kumar and cook Jagatman Tamang at our first campsite in the Kinnaur region.

Sutlej River

Campsite at Kafnoo

Trekking up the Bhaba Valley for 3 days, passing flocks of Merino sheep and goats on summer grazing pastures with their Gaddi shepherds, we camped at the bottom of Bhaba Pass.

Packing up for Day 2 of Trek

The Bhaba Valley

Camp 3

Merino Sheep on the mountain pastures

Horseman, cook and shepherd

Camp at Base of Bhaba Pass

Sheep at campsite

Storm brewing in progress

Gaddi Shepherd

Bhaba Pass, 4700 metres, was crossed in the only storm in 6 weeks, heavy rain initially and struggling through driving snow, which was getting quite deep, at higher levels. That night we took shelter with Gaddi shepherds in their tiny Dhoksas. Crossing flooded streams the following morning we arrived at the village of Mudh in the Pin River Valley of the Spiti region. Walking out of Mudh passed numerous slips on the only road, met our transport and finally arrived at Kaza in the Spiti Valley, the largest town in that region.

Mudh Village, Spiti

Me & Sherpa Guide Neer, Mudh

Pin Valley, Spiti

Children at Mudh

Over the next 2 days we attended the annual festival at Kyi Monastery and drove down the Spiti Valley to Tabo to visit a monastery dating back to 996 AD and built with dry mud, clay and a little gravel, warm in winter and cool in summer.

Ki Monastery


Tabo Monastery


Dhankar Village


Spiti Girl with Spiti river in the background

Then over the following 4 days we trekked between the high mountain villages of Lhalung, Demul, Komic and Langza staying in home stays, a great way to meet the local people. These villages all have extensive fields of grains and vegetables as they are snow bound in winter and have to be self sufficient. Trekking amidst high mountains with views of Kanamo, 5974 metres, and the perfect cone of Cho Cho Khang Nilda at over 6300 metres.

Langza Village, Spiti

Farmfields in Demul Village, Spiti

ChoCho Khang Nilda in the background

16^th July. Left Kaza to drive out of Spiti and over the Kunzum Pass, 4500 metres, with its chortens and prayer flags, into the Lahaul Valley. Great views of Bara Shigri glacier and surrounding high peaks, most around 6000 mtrs. Camped for the night at the beautiful Chandra Tal lake and then drove down the Chandra River valley to meet the Manali-Leh highway. Following this highway, along with numerous TATA trucks bound for Leh, we crossed the Baralachla La (pass) 4892 metres with stunning snowfields and the still half ice melted Sun Lake. Crossing more passes, the highest being Lachung La, 5065 metres, we arrived on the Chang Tang Plateau an extension of the Tibetan Plateau.

Kunzum Pass

Chander Tal

Sun Lake before Baralacha La

Snowfields at Baralacha La

Turning off the Manali-Leh highway we passed Tso Kar salt lake, saw Tibetan wild asses and eventually reached the huge Tsomoriri Lake with the twin peaks Chamsher Lungsher Kangri in view on the opposite side. Camped at Korzok on the lake shore and next day drove right down the Indus River gorge to Leh, capital of the Ladakh region, and a meeting with Yangdu, who with her husband Motup, founded Rimo Expeditions.

Tibetan Wild Ass, Changtang

Tsomoriri Lake with Chamsher Lungsher Kangri in the background

20^th July. Met Bhim Lama, my new trekking guide, and Joan from Wales and Hemant from Bombay. Visited a Japanese Buddhist monastery and pagoda. Next day taken by Monastery guide Rinchen Dolma to Hemis Monastery, Thiksey Monastery and Shey Palace, the original home of the rulers of Ladakh, in the Leh Valley.

Hemis Monastery

23^rd July. Drove over the Khardung La, at 5602 metres the highest motorable pass, and down into the Shyok River valley, then on into the Nubra valley, staying at the Rimo Hotel in Tirith and visiting Aentsa Monastery. Next day joined the crowds at Diskit Monastery to see and hear the Dalai Lama speak. Camped in Hundar after watching Bactrian camels being ridden.

Double humped Bactrian Camels, Hundar Dunes

26th July. Started trekking up the gorges of the fast flowing Thanglasgo River, camping at Skarchen. Four more days of trekking and camping up the upper valley of this river took us to the base of the Lasermo La. Next morning a 5 a.m. start over gently rising snow slopes led to the Lasermo La at 5400 metres. Here we were rewarded by the rare sight of a snow leopard loping up the slopes of a nearby mountain. A long valley walk out and next day back to Leh and farewells.

Climbing up the Lasermo La

Leh

Six weeks of great trekking and 4 wheel drive travel with a top trekking company, excellent guides and trek crews, and I will definitely be returning.

Rob Scarr.
New Zealand.